Best Sunglasses for Cycling in Singapore

It’s 7am on the East Coast Park connector, the sun is low and coming straight at you, and your sunglasses have slid down your nose for the third time since Bedok. You let go of the handlebar to push them up. That is exactly when you shouldn’t be letting go of the handlebar.

This guide is about choosing sunglasses for cycling that stay where you put them. We’ll cover what actually matters, what doesn’t, and which Sunday Shades pairs we’d wear on a ride.

What to look for in cycling sunglasses

• They stay put over bumps, kerbs and rough park connector tarmac
• They hold on when your head is down in a riding position
• They fit comfortably under your helmet
• UV400 protected lenses, because you’re out for hours
• A lens type that suits what you look at most: the road, the water, or your bike computer
• Light enough that you forget they’re there by the second hour

Everything below is really an explanation of that list.

Why ordinary sunglasses fail on a bike

They bounce. Every bump shakes a loose frame. A pair that feels fine walking to the MRT can be rattling on your face by the first rough stretch.

They slide when you tuck down. Head down, the nose bridge takes all the weight and the frames start to travel. Then the arms catch your helmet and you’re pushing them back up one-handed.

They fight your helmet. Chunky arms press against straps and pads. After an hour that’s a headache, not a style choice.

They go slippery at the lights. Sweat acts like oil. Stop at a red light in Singapore humidity and the frames head south, usually just as the light turns green.

Asian Fit matters more on a bike

Most sunglasses are shaped for higher nose bridges and flatter cheeks. If your nose bridge sits lower and your cheekbones sit higher, the frames rest on your cheeks, tilt, and slip. It gets worse on a bike, because your head is angled down for most of the ride.

Asian Fit is frame geometry made for lower nose bridges and higher cheekbones, and it also suits many European faces. The frames sit where they should instead of balancing on your cheeks.

Every Sunday Shades pair has:

• Asian Fit frame
• FitFlow™
• do-not-bounce and no slide
• UV400 protected lenses
• Unisex design

Polarised or not? Depends what you stare at

Polarised lenses cut the glare bouncing off wet roads, car bonnets and the sea at East Coast Park. If that’s your main complaint, polarised is the easy answer.

The trade-off is screens. Some bike computers and watches look dimmer through polarised lenses. If you check yours every few minutes, anti-glare lenses without polarisation are easier on the eyes.

There’s no wrong answer. Ask yourself what you notice most when you ride, and pick that one. Tint is mostly a matter of what looks and feels easiest on your eyes.

UV400 protected, and why it matters on long rides

A two-hour ride is two hours of sun on your eyes, and the glare off tarmac adds to it. UV400 protected lenses block UV light up to 400 nanometres, which covers both UVA and UVB. It’s the first thing to check, before colour, before shape.

Three Sunday Shades pairs for the bike

Surge (polarised). For riders who want glare control on wet roads and along the coast. Asian Fit, FitFlow™ and do-not-bounce are all standard.

Cockpit (polarised). The same polarised benefits as Surge in a different frame. If you can’t decide, try both against your face and your helmet.

Volt (TR90 frame, anti-glare lenses, not polarised). For the rider who is always glancing at a bike computer or a watch. TR90 is a light, flexible frame material.

All three are UV400 protected, do-not-bounce and built to stay put.

A fair note on swappable lenses

If you race, or ride a lot in the dark, a dedicated cycling system with interchangeable lenses is worth looking at. That isn’t what we make. If you want one comfortable pair that works for the commute, the Sunday ride and a run afterwards, that’s exactly what we make.

The 30-second fit check, on the bike

Put your helmet on first. Then put the sunglasses on and drop your head into your riding position. Shake your head side to side, then nod a few times, hard. They should stay put. Smile as wide as you can. The frames shouldn’t ride up on your cheeks. Finally, check the arms. If they press under the helmet pads, they won’t survive a long ride.

Looking after them

Rinse under the tap, then pat dry. Don’t wipe grit or dried sweat off a dry lens, because that’s how scratches start. Keep them in a case, not loose in the bottle cage.

Cycling sunglasses FAQ

What are the best sunglasses for cycling?
The best pair is the one that stays on your face and doesn’t fight your helmet. Look for a fit made for your face shape, UV400 protected lenses, and a lens type that suits what you look at most.

Are polarised sunglasses good for cycling?
Yes, if glare off wet roads or water bothers you. Some riders find bike computers and watches look dimmer through them, so anti-glare lenses without polarisation can suit those riders better.

Do I need cycling-specific sunglasses?
Not always. What matters is fit, UV protection and whether they stay put. A pair built to stay on during sport often does the job for most riders. Racers and night riders may want interchangeable lenses.

Do cycling sunglasses fit under a helmet?
They should. Check that the arms don’t press under the helmet pads or straps. Put the helmet on first when you try them.

Can I use the same sunglasses for cycling and running?
Yes. Pairs designed not to bounce work for both. That’s why every Sunday Shades model is do-not-bounce.

If you’re still weighing it up, have a look through the range and pick the pair you’d happily wear for three hours.

See you on the park connector.